Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.

It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.

"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to have an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Around the World

So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help cities remain greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from construction by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the president.

Mystery Polish Variety

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Across the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a barrier on

Sarah Williamson
Sarah Williamson

Elara is a passionate storyteller and writing coach with a love for crafting engaging narratives and sharing creative techniques.